tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-63319212249379986732024-03-14T00:11:18.433-07:00Mike Tayse-Jewelry ClassMike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-13490235359673666162013-01-01T11:17:00.000-08:002019-07-03T07:31:30.084-07:00Introduction<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPj46exZ5bHx-E2roe92_tx1HKkh-muPlb_WA2PdJpv_F36MySDptBVju6Mk2MVRxa_0R7fFMN917DgBQNdDaaoKBbWYJV5YYQBpefdLINsBxhAqi82fjuQmSMaefIVEH68GPGWZhtY7iu/s1600/me+and+lil+hammering+2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPj46exZ5bHx-E2roe92_tx1HKkh-muPlb_WA2PdJpv_F36MySDptBVju6Mk2MVRxa_0R7fFMN917DgBQNdDaaoKBbWYJV5YYQBpefdLINsBxhAqi82fjuQmSMaefIVEH68GPGWZhtY7iu/s400/me+and+lil+hammering+2" width="300" /></a></div>
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ME and Baby 'Lil.</div>
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This is a site for and about the jewelry classes and workshops I teach. I've taught jewelry making to all age levels both long term classes at Lorain County Community College and short 3 hour workshops at various locations. I use(in my own work) and teach basic fabrication(this includes sawing, soldering, filing, sanding, buffing, etc.) lost wax casting, sand casting, and etching(both photo etching involving silk screening and regular resist etching). I've been making things in metal for at least 20+ years now and at one time sold to approximately 10 galleries and did quite a bit of repairs, mostly the sizing of rings and mending broken earrings and necklaces. I'm currently an art teacher at Bethel Local, in the greater Dayton area. For more information about my current teaching experience please click <a href="https://miketayseartteacher.wordpress.com/">https://miketayseartteacher.wordpress.com/</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCGfu8pEsWW0keBnYfnwH0o7E5Fl47wRSVjp_-CmKiFEgFzVXpX9tYSBWjM7tG4gHDx8wfCPXBOWh6Ch4H0ehnYdJyVj9ZnSCsASmFNSyVgzH3WmSU9fqziE2eMnKFOOL_NaUNFYuj4OPV/s1600/DSCF1828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCGfu8pEsWW0keBnYfnwH0o7E5Fl47wRSVjp_-CmKiFEgFzVXpX9tYSBWjM7tG4gHDx8wfCPXBOWh6Ch4H0ehnYdJyVj9ZnSCsASmFNSyVgzH3WmSU9fqziE2eMnKFOOL_NaUNFYuj4OPV/s320/DSCF1828.jpg" /></a></div>
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This is a shot of me and a student soldering. I remember she was pretty anxious about the flame and all. I try to hover and be available and offer as much assistance as is seemingly needed. Ultimately, if all goes well, as an instructor, I"ll make my self obsolete!</div>
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Another colorized picture of me demonstrating how to file something. Most likely a ring blank, judging by the use of the wooden blocks in the vise. </div>
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<a href="http://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmSKwHNF_tVHvbdauLVpVzePYOrNzWhbCKFWOvF0HmmFar4AUgBOLx_ST7s5nqjKNe1yZxF0UpwHXLGFqcJ_VuLwPKZ9ecnI01_0IROnj0H3qQeEvOzaPD5NrkCwXQzR06Phh1rSZLbl9d/s1600/good+fuller.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmSKwHNF_tVHvbdauLVpVzePYOrNzWhbCKFWOvF0HmmFar4AUgBOLx_ST7s5nqjKNe1yZxF0UpwHXLGFqcJ_VuLwPKZ9ecnI01_0IROnj0H3qQeEvOzaPD5NrkCwXQzR06Phh1rSZLbl9d/s320/good+fuller.jpg" /></a></div>
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A reasonable picture(I really need to improve my photography skills) of an etching I do which is a copy of a piece called the <i>Fuller Brooch</i>. It was made in the 9th century. Click the link for more information: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuller_Brooch">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuller_Brooch</a>. </div>
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You have to respect and be in awe of the original maker. He or she did it with less than good lighting and primitive tools but more than compensated with extraordinary skill and determination. The imagery is amazing and to me somewhat mysterious/ambiguous. I blew up a picture and inked up some areas to repair some of the dinged up spots. I've sold a few of these when I used to do the Ren fairs and I still sell a few. </div>
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I've done many stamps in this fashion. I use new or slightly used stamps bolted up between pieces of plastic that I drill holes into. Since I only need small pieces of plastic I can use scrap. I generally use #256 bolts(allen heads, fillister, hex, etc) and then glue a pin on the back. I also do my own drawing in this fashion but the cool thing about using stamps is I can offer any subject matter because pretty much everything you can think of has been made into a postage stamp. You need a pin to celebrate go cart riding in Czechoslovakia? I got it. A pin whose subject matter is Maria Montessori? I've got it. French art, chickens, Elvis, bicycling...I've got them all. I have this 12 drawer display of all kinds of stamps for various subject matters.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">This particular stamp pin has an interesting story. I was picking up and dropping off repairs and was restocking stamp pins and other jewelry that I make and placing them into a large glass display case at </span><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-style: italic; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Art in the Powerhouse, </span><span style="font-family: "arial"; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">an art gallery, in Cleveland, Ohio. This older lady picked up a stamp pin commemorating Anne Frank and started crying. I was crouched on the floor reaching into the case and looked up, pretty confused. She was being accompanied by another lady who explained the crying woman was </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miep_Gies" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: #1155cc; font-family: "arial"; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Miep Gies</span></a><span style="font-family: "arial"; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">,the woman who hid and kept Anne Franks writings. At the time I didn't know that. She knew a stamp had been made of Anne Frank in the Netherlands(I sell that one too) but she didn't know Germany had made one. The irony was a bit too much for her. As she went on to tell us/me, Anne Frank had been her friend when they were both little girls, and not the abstract person we know through books. She remembers the Nazi's entering the houses and searching. She remembers Anne Frank and herself hiding and the fear they both felt. Anne Frank was her best friend as a young girl and she remembers going dancing with Anne and all the other fun stuff they did as young girls too. It was still very real to her, it was-is her life. She lived the stuff we read of. It was a strange and moving moment. I was just in to stock pins and pick up and drop off repairs. I'll certainly never forget it.</span><br />
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If you would like to buy this pin, I've put a, "Buy Now" below. </div>
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<a href="http://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpHDETA-NA-EAhyphenhyphenp_EGD8yxRnFSXyGBB8I2Uf5_C2AbGBtQEZE4RckcHU3rHDCF_52tudDAJpQ9j_Ae75biDC6vUdMlZx9e4VTglxBFW1vnMZECBOw-gRwvEfCM73MnbF2V1JpWOGFiIRG/s1600/alice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpHDETA-NA-EAhyphenhyphenp_EGD8yxRnFSXyGBB8I2Uf5_C2AbGBtQEZE4RckcHU3rHDCF_52tudDAJpQ9j_Ae75biDC6vUdMlZx9e4VTglxBFW1vnMZECBOw-gRwvEfCM73MnbF2V1JpWOGFiIRG/s320/alice.jpg" /> </a></div>
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Just another stamp pin. It's from a series commemorating children's books in Great Britain. These are pretty popular. I've set up at some conferences for reading teachers and sold quite a few of these. </div>
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Another etched piece. <br />
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<a href="http://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSqjxAG8uVjAGydia3Bwi7LVsEIOZOC-tuMV2R9H3f9s6Z_ai7wxZCgoP1zqcGzr8IrtUgwqx4g0n4_hm9ImYasV97AlWq7hWDBkf_6m5C8QIE8eqEpxYDCVWRmMqQ30qDbVSBglmmBnZ_/s1600/DSCN3458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSqjxAG8uVjAGydia3Bwi7LVsEIOZOC-tuMV2R9H3f9s6Z_ai7wxZCgoP1zqcGzr8IrtUgwqx4g0n4_hm9ImYasV97AlWq7hWDBkf_6m5C8QIE8eqEpxYDCVWRmMqQ30qDbVSBglmmBnZ_/s320/DSCN3458.jpg" /></a></div>
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The outside of the studio I built in the backyard. This is the Painesville studio. I'm now in Tipp City, Ohio and have built a new studio into my barn. I'm leaving the old pictures of the Painesville studio but if you want to see the new studio, <a href="http://miketayse.blogspot.com/search/label/A%20New%20Studio">Here's some pictures.</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKwuQ0nvdUCwZ0Ge-C0ehOgf70WIyp3J1BMgs_4zgUUYM-aHwf3-vRAkyN2gp81aRCAzWjIEd6UMjF7tzz474bM80oxlSsWoKfryuT4tFg3Vdk6V1Y2mgHmgZSN1at759VXPDrQrBvHAMF/s1600/DSCN3465.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKwuQ0nvdUCwZ0Ge-C0ehOgf70WIyp3J1BMgs_4zgUUYM-aHwf3-vRAkyN2gp81aRCAzWjIEd6UMjF7tzz474bM80oxlSsWoKfryuT4tFg3Vdk6V1Y2mgHmgZSN1at759VXPDrQrBvHAMF/s320/DSCN3465.jpg" /></a></div>
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The bench where the buffer, ultrasonic cleaner, drill press and primitively rigged up, via plywood, portable band saw converted into a more stationary one, reside. I have a larger buffer in the garage. The small one is so I don't have to go outside in the winter. I'm 'kinda of a lazy guy. All the books in this picture are books about jewelry. I've picked up quite a bit from them. </div>
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<a href="http://www.gophoto.it/view.php?i=https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCSeG2Ni0wlMH2tPUlG2bAk-TYmKnUzL091ZlqFwK55PuNB8DUsqOjUy3IjiF_rxDRygTqIgYJvZD9hFVWYIrMAjNjl6pHS-5yZNvpPMsM98Hd2frCK6-_kXp3V7jJM_2aJRdhAMfABwfP/s1600/DSCN3470.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCSeG2Ni0wlMH2tPUlG2bAk-TYmKnUzL091ZlqFwK55PuNB8DUsqOjUy3IjiF_rxDRygTqIgYJvZD9hFVWYIrMAjNjl6pHS-5yZNvpPMsM98Hd2frCK6-_kXp3V7jJM_2aJRdhAMfABwfP/s320/DSCN3470.jpg" /></a></div>
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This is my bench that I usually saw, hammer, file, sand, grind, etc at. You can see the vise with the wood jaws and the rolling mill off to the left and the nice tool box made by Dave Zautner off to the right side of the bench. It's hard to see but the wonderful set of drawers holding up the bench on the right was given to me by Joan Perch. I did a panorama on the Windows Photosynth of the shop entitled, <a href="http://photosynth.net/view.aspx?cid=4463d4c7-72ba-4b6a-82ad-8f45befdea9f">mike tayse workshop 1</a>. You can use your mouse to drag the picture around and see my shop.</div>
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A little closer view of the bench.<br />
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The clean part of the shop! Laptop, scanner, packing materials, drawing table, files, paper cutter and the like. It's probably 6' x 8' or so. Strangely neat...</div>
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A lot of things I make start this way. <br />
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I grabbed this image from another blog, it seemed funny.</div>
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Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-4411052339261031762012-11-20T11:51:00.001-08:002012-11-21T07:49:39.186-08:00Fall 2012 ClassThe shots below are from the fall 2012 class. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkDJELtDXatLPHETMx1GzNFbzafhMqEGoBAOqwcFmwjS-8kR0fLSKfrijM_RzXaau27TWlYRjSozdYm9lymnH4gAg7Iz6t1sm5AYnqd9Gmsq-E0YP9wa3q9HhEuObEdPhYvYbx0RnbTPo/s1600/DSCN9907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkDJELtDXatLPHETMx1GzNFbzafhMqEGoBAOqwcFmwjS-8kR0fLSKfrijM_RzXaau27TWlYRjSozdYm9lymnH4gAg7Iz6t1sm5AYnqd9Gmsq-E0YP9wa3q9HhEuObEdPhYvYbx0RnbTPo/s320/DSCN9907.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Sometimes it takes two people to solder and I don't think anybody got burned. A great success all the way around.<br />
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It looks like she is sizing up a ring. I believe it was her first or second which you can see below.<br />
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Here you can see the ring being buffed up. Many skills were learned in making this ring.<br /><br />
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It was quite a thrash. It looks very simple. She had to make two rings and solder them together. Then she had to make the bezel, solder it on(without ruining the ring), then buff it up to a nice shine.<br />
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I believe she is buffing up to a high and most wondrous shine, this....<br />
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I think is is made with beach glass and brass. A very cost effective, beautiful, and wearable bauble. <br />
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This was made with some gallery wire. A nice, quick, and effective way to make a decorative ring.<br />
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This is another great piece. It's made from a piece of bottle/beach glass, not sure as to the origin. The student cut a small circle to fit inside the depression(which looks like a hexagonal faceted shape), buffed it to a high shine, made a jump ring, and then added a small(2.5mm, or so)cz to it. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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More nice beach glass. I believe it was the students' first bezel. Nicely done!</div>
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Paul continues to improve his cutting skill, nice cut out piece. I believe this was done using a photo of his cat.<br />
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<br />Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-72031892751843104472012-02-11T12:18:00.000-08:002012-02-11T12:40:17.691-08:00Titanium Scraper<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Making a Titanium Paint Scraper</span></div>
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This project was done around Christmas time in 2010. In my family we draw names to do a random gift exchange and have to give/make gifts that are generally handmade and preferably use less than $10.00 worth of materials. In the jewelry class I teach I've done a bit of simple knife making and this falls under that realm. There is really no particular reason to make a titanium paint scraper other than the fact that the person I drew that year was Alex, who is an engineer, and I figured he would appreciate, no demand, a tool that utilized aero- space materials. Since Alex makes beer, I figured I'd also cut out a profile on the side of the scraper into the shape of a bottle opener- a handy addition to any tool. In addition to the titanium blade I used/cut apart a largish walnut branch from my yard for the handle on Alex's scraper. You can see from the pictures I really made two scrapers The other one I used a piece of scrap Corian, a counter top material. I rarely make just one thing at a time, let face it, the tools are out, might as well make at least two.</div>
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This is a picture of the walnut log, recently pried out of the snow, with my friendly neighborhood rechargeable Milwaukee Sawzall, perched on top.<br />
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A close up of myself cutting apart the walnut branch into a couple of usable slabs destined to make a handle or two. I really should have cut this in the summer and let the slab dry-age, plus it would have been easier than doing the deed in the snow.<br />
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A picture of the tool, material, and finished slab.<br />
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This is a picture of a sheet of 14 gauge titanium partially cut on my small band saw. It's a portable band saw with a homemade plywood base screwed together to make it a stationary band saw. <br />
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Here is a picture of one of the titanium blanks next to a scraper I 'kinda used as a model. You probably can't tell it from the photo, but the model scraper has a beautiful rosewood handle, nicely set rivets, a very interesting metal bolster, a strong, thick blade, some interesting, but so far, useless numbers and letters, and absolutely no makers marks. I have no idea exactly where I got, but I think from my grandpa Davis's stuff, when he died. It's certainly a premium paint scraper and nicer than anything I've ever seen.<br />
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Here is a shot of one of the blanks completely sawed out, but not yet finished, edges ground, smoothed etc.<br />
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Her I am cutting apart the wood slab I cut from the walnut branch. I had to do this a few times because the wood had a split running through it that would revel itself when I started finishing the handle. I had to grind off/drill out the rivets and peel off the wood. 'Wotta pain!<br />
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You can see the finished Corian version on the left and the other titanium blank with the wood handles ready to go on the right. I used the slow-set JB weld two part epoxy to bed the handle down and commercial knife rivets I cut down to size. I used a jewelers saw to cut out the bottle opener. <br />
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Here I'm drilling out the holes to fit the rivets through. You have to over drill the diameter of the holes because the rivets spread out inside the handle to grip tight.<br />
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The above shots are just funny to me. It's crazy how many tools you have to get out just to accomplish something so simple. It's by no means the total amount of crap I had to drag out, there was really more! Pretty much like any household project, in that regard.<br />
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The two finished scrapers. I stamped my name on the blades and did a little bit of finish work on the edges and such. I could have buffed and polished the titanium blades, but it would have taken a while, and, let's face it, it's just a scraper. I finished the walnut handled one with some tung oil and some Bri-Wax. The Corian version just got some sanding and some buffing. I ground a sharp blade on one and left the other squared off. I did a little bit of cutting and grinding on the bottle opener to get it working a bit better. I probably should mention that to Alex, his probably needs a little bit of tweaking. </div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-33914936477596940102012-02-11T12:17:00.001-08:002012-02-11T12:40:43.777-08:00Casting a Tiki<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-size: large;"> The other day, during Arts and Crafts class at Lorain County Community College, I made a clay tiki head while the rest of the students did their clay projects. A couple of students had made some small, charm like hearts and such, so I thought it would be a good time to demonstrate how to make a plaster mold of a simple object and pour a pewter copy. </span></div>
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This is a picture of the dried and unfired clay tiki head. I removed the clay tiki before it was dried, because it peels out a lot easier. </div>
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This is a picture of the clay tiki head in the mold. Here it is already dried and I had already removed it and did a little carving. But hopefully you get the idea of of the plaster mold and the </div>
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clay tiki head I modeled.</div>
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This is a the clay tiki head beside the plaster mold.</div>
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The torch is starting to warm up the metal inside the crucible. The plaster mold on top of the brick</div>
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has been sitting on a hot plate for 15+ minutes to get it warm. That way it's less likely to break from the thermal shock of pouring molten pewter into it, which is about 500 degrees. </div>
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Starting to move in a bit closer to hasten the melting of the metal.</div>
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Almost ready to pour.</div>
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Pouring the molten pewter into the plaster mold. I like this shot, something about molten metal and fire that looks so appealing.<br />
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The mold full of hot, molten metal, starting to cool. You can't see it but the surface of the metal 'kinda swirls around and and tiny bits of gas and material are ejected up as it cools. It's pretty neat looking!</div>
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The cooled pewter tiki head being slid from the mold.</div>
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The mold with the original clay tiki and the freshly removed pewter tiki.</div>
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All done, except I still have to remove the excess metal flash, and then do some sanding </div>
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and buffing.</div>
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Three shots of the finished tiki head.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOS2fhJHvOxyE2SiolSusa40kExQ28ZHnRTtpgTBmXpDrfy1ICAiBuyJuJdYk61OOPCRN2IReLdpy7CgpxY0LNcB2DdY4TLwlu7mcFJ84hke_FZwNGV2H6gGqFos1l6WAbztR5-En1x4M/s1600/DSCN1939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOS2fhJHvOxyE2SiolSusa40kExQ28ZHnRTtpgTBmXpDrfy1ICAiBuyJuJdYk61OOPCRN2IReLdpy7CgpxY0LNcB2DdY4TLwlu7mcFJ84hke_FZwNGV2H6gGqFos1l6WAbztR5-En1x4M/s400/DSCN1939.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The one on the left is the clay original, glazed and<br />
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fired up to cone 4-5.<br />
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The middle one is sanded, filed, buffed, and strung on a cord.<br />
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The one on the right is the second unfinished casting poured from the same mold.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6T3cZyMbmmbwzIm2bzEff2UrfBRTmf-j0BlncLWlgSV6i5iqfC7sGzcThFd69FLf2KZlyOS_pyilQDQHeLIHFZ87UkOSonj66YTbaD84eiAhJ_oF0Zj7OOR-Bu7JPFBtIl0xS6DuK6CV/s1600/tiki+ring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="382" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6T3cZyMbmmbwzIm2bzEff2UrfBRTmf-j0BlncLWlgSV6i5iqfC7sGzcThFd69FLf2KZlyOS_pyilQDQHeLIHFZ87UkOSonj66YTbaD84eiAhJ_oF0Zj7OOR-Bu7JPFBtIl0xS6DuK6CV/s400/tiki+ring.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is another tiki. I'm not obsessed about making tikis, but they are fun. I've carved them, fabricated them, and etched them. This one is a lost wax casting in sterling silver that I soldered onto a ring. I did the original wax fast and as you can see from the close-up photo, pretty crudely. </div>
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<br /></div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-64691435599068288202012-02-11T12:16:00.001-08:002012-02-11T12:42:48.484-08:00Ring Making Workshop<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2uRGZGxsI/AAAAAAAABFU/qxdVFNwhr4Y/s1600-h/DSCF4456.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" height="300" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345119941555570370" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2uRGZGxsI/AAAAAAAABFU/qxdVFNwhr4Y/s400/DSCF4456.JPG" style="display: block; height: 240px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" width="400" /></a> Looks like she's happy with the ring she just<br />
completed </div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2uQ1XfXSI/AAAAAAAABFM/9jRmpUFHUP4/s1600-h/DSCF4455.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" height="300" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345119936985390370" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2uQ1XfXSI/AAAAAAAABFM/9jRmpUFHUP4/s400/DSCF4455.JPG" style="display: block; height: 240px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" width="400" /></a> A newly soldered ring going into<br />
the pickel.</div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2uQsyyfKI/AAAAAAAABFE/XoTpIcoplcs/s1600-h/DSCF4453.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" height="300" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345119934683970722" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2uQsyyfKI/AAAAAAAABFE/XoTpIcoplcs/s400/DSCF4453.JPG" style="display: block; height: 240px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" width="400" /></a> Paul lends a helping hand<br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2uQVrWOgI/AAAAAAAABE8/lVMCGAqiL9A/s1600-h/DSCF4450.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" height="480" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345119928478743042" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2uQVrWOgI/AAAAAAAABE8/lVMCGAqiL9A/s640/DSCF4450.JPG" style="display: block; height: 240px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" width="640" /></a> Showing off a new creation.</div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2uP4Un7OI/AAAAAAAABE0/NMrXL5T01-Y/s1600-h/DSCF4444.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345119920598805730" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2uP4Un7OI/AAAAAAAABE0/NMrXL5T01-Y/s320/DSCF4444.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a> Diane with her curved ring</div><br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2tEho18XI/AAAAAAAABEs/mo2BBGJjEc8/s1600-h/DSCF4443.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345118626019406194" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2tEho18XI/AAAAAAAABEs/mo2BBGJjEc8/s320/DSCF4443.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2rm7LbBlI/AAAAAAAABEk/yuo2kqWBMMQ/s1600-h/DSCF4459.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345117017967625810" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2rm7LbBlI/AAAAAAAABEk/yuo2kqWBMMQ/s320/DSCF4459.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a> A workshop participant polishes the<br />
first ring she ever made<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2rmVXsDXI/AAAAAAAABEU/uEe-kmrESww/s1600-h/DSCF4466.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345117007818526066" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2rmVXsDXI/AAAAAAAABEU/uEe-kmrESww/s320/DSCF4466.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a> An close up view of a copper ring with a<br />
hammered chisel texture<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2rl8aE-UI/AAAAAAAABEM/MgBbRrlMgpU/s1600-h/DSCF4469.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345117001117661506" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2rl8aE-UI/AAAAAAAABEM/MgBbRrlMgpU/s320/DSCF4469.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a> A much wider, and harder to fit<br />
hammered copper band<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2rlmuLZaI/AAAAAAAABEE/KExmV9vyTm4/s1600-h/DSCF4464.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345116995296388514" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2rlmuLZaI/AAAAAAAABEE/KExmV9vyTm4/s320/DSCF4464.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a> Hammering a texture and increasing<br />
the size of the ring.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2kzsiwoPI/AAAAAAAABD0/r3h9FSpnAeg/s1600-h/DSCF4447.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345109540795883762" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2kzsiwoPI/AAAAAAAABD0/r3h9FSpnAeg/s320/DSCF4447.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a> A group of workshop participants<br />
happily thrashing out new rings.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2kzLTLK_I/AAAAAAAABDk/v8Yy8lllDaU/s1600-h/DSCF4449.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345109531872144370" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2kzLTLK_I/AAAAAAAABDk/v8Yy8lllDaU/s320/DSCF4449.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a> Diane filing her ring blank</div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_DVq3DWlUI50/Si2ky6x6IoI/AAAAAAAABDc/1kg5xcEb3Y0/s1600-h/DSCF4450.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><br />
</a>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-38292995337498388802012-02-11T12:15:00.000-08:002012-02-11T12:49:05.405-08:00Stone Drilling Elementary Students<div style="color: black; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The following pictures of are some 4th and 5th grade students drilling stones that we tumbled in class. Running the tumbler in class took approximately two to four weeks. We ran the tumbler at night because the noise was just a bit too much for the classroom.</span></b></span></div>
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This is a picture of the tumbled stone before the hole was drilled</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">This is a picture of a student lowering the Dremel tool, which is fitted with a relatively inexpensive diamond tipped bit, into a small cup of water. The stone he tumbled is hot glued to the bottom of the small cup. As I look at this picture of a young student, drilling a stone, submerged in water, with an electric power tool, I'm think'in to myself, "that doesn't look safe". But I've never really had a problem.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Another picture of the drilling operation.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">You can't really tell , but the student is slowly and carefully lifting and pushing down on the stone, while the bit is turning. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">This is a picture of a stone with the hole drilled through it. I should have taken a picture of the smiling faces when the task was completed. Young and old students alike are always surprised to see how easy it is to drill through stone and glass.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">It's hard to see here, but he's trying to hold the stone up while he's putting a jump ring through the drilled hole. I showed the students how to make the jump rings too!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Jump ring installed, strung on a cord, and flashing a peace sign.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPXdTH3lrEnz4xWGuFhyphenhyphennzU6kB259Zz2grgeeT7eh0KW7QC8P9TJ15WUDE6nWgaLK9dOagCtrpKsFMYM26-paIFhGBodHbVLGKPUyhmMXxvvSRPO-d5y1c8GJjElUqzF1BUaxlguCnoI4/s1600/DSCF0405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPXdTH3lrEnz4xWGuFhyphenhyphennzU6kB259Zz2grgeeT7eh0KW7QC8P9TJ15WUDE6nWgaLK9dOagCtrpKsFMYM26-paIFhGBodHbVLGKPUyhmMXxvvSRPO-d5y1c8GJjElUqzF1BUaxlguCnoI4/s320/DSCF0405.JPG" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Another completed drilled stone, jump ringed, strung on a cord and ready to wear!</span><br />
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Drilling most stones and glass is fairly easy, Below is a abbreviated step by step.</div>
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In terms of materials/tools you need a rotary tool (with a foot pedal to control the speed), some diamond bits big enough to drill the size hole you want, small cup, some water, safety glasses, and a dab of hot glue to temporarily hold the stone to the bottom of the cup. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">BE CAREFUL-PERSONAL SAFETY IS YOUR OWN PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY</span></div>
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1. First, you need some sort of rotary tool. I usually use a Dremel with a foot pedal to regulate the speed. You can use a flexible shaft (it usually has a little less end play/wobble), but generally, and lately, I use a Dremel because it's easier to travel with. With a flexible shaft you have to provide for a way to hang the motor and when I do shows or instruct classes, it's just one more thing to bring along and set up. So... I tend to use a Dremel. Safety glasses are a good idea. Plus, keep in mind your mixing electricity and water, never a really great idea. </div>
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2. Small cup with short walls ( I usually cut something down). You have to be able to reach into the cup easily so the cup generally does not have to be over 1/2 inch, unless your drilling something large, in which case, your on you own and best-o-luck! </div>
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3. Hot glue the stone or glass in question to the bottom of the cup.</div>
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4. You need to fill the cup partially with water. Just enough to submerge the stone or glass you are trying to drill. You put the water in the cup to keep the tip of the tool cool and lubricated. You can buy special drilling lubricants to make the job easier and more reliably successful, but I usually just use water.</div>
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5. Put a diamond bit in your choice of rotary tools and carefully try to spin it slowly (hence, the reason for the foot pedal). I usually start the bit and an angle and then straighten it up. But it often depends upon the stone.</div>
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6. As I run the tool at slow, but varying speeds, I <i>GENTLY</i> push and lift up on the tool repeatedly, to let the bit churn out the stone debris into the water. </div>
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7. It's hard to predict how long any stone will take, but almost all are under a few minutes. It really depends upon how hard the stone is and how good/new your diamond bit is.</div>
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8. That's about it, there is really not a whole lot to it, thanks to inexpensive diamond bits. Not everything drill well and some stuff breaks! 'Ya can't let it bother you.</div>
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As projects go, it's an easy one. Drill a some stone or some beach glass, fit it with a jump ring, string it on a cord and that's pretty much it.</div>
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<br /></div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-56322925160576389492012-02-11T12:13:00.001-08:002012-02-11T12:49:35.704-08:00Me and Baby Lil Make a Heart Pendant<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The following pictures are of Lil, Rachel and Alex's child, my brothers grandkid, my great niece. It's always nice when they come up to visit and we usually make something in the studio. This time me and Lil made a heart pendant. I cut it out and did most of it, but, hey, she's 4. She did get to stamp the letters and do some sanding. Rachel shot all of the photos.<br />
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Here is me sawing, terribly exciting, huh? </div>
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Here I am sanding the edge of the heart with a rotary tool.</div>
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Here we are smacking a letter stamp into the copper heart.</div>
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A shot of the heart on the anvil.</div>
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Here Lil and myself are drilling a hole into the heart</div>
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so we can put a jump ring through it.</div>
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Still drilling. No one is hurt yet.</div>
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A shot of the heart so far.</div>
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More smacking of metal stamps. We stamped "LIL" on one side</div>
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and on the other side we stamped my maker stamp, "TAYSE".</div>
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No real reason for this shot, except I like it.</div>
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Me and the Lil child sanding.</div>
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Here I am trying to provide sanding tips to a 4 year old. </div>
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Now for the buffing.</div>
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The entire process was kept under the watchful eye of </div>
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Sophie the Wonderdog.</div>
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A little bit more of rotary tool buffing.</div>
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A little more of a buffing close up.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguypNxyupt7aGisiAmcV3lmH_jig39ezy3RfnTMXoRLMuIiCXybeDz0uCNNmn7p6t5brLTYH4cGlhPlktMkYDWs1Ltb_RzLjHLnalkZZsdlWsT7GR7zQH2SV7Nr8vmnReRvrRz4N75zDkw/s1600/IMG_2359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguypNxyupt7aGisiAmcV3lmH_jig39ezy3RfnTMXoRLMuIiCXybeDz0uCNNmn7p6t5brLTYH4cGlhPlktMkYDWs1Ltb_RzLjHLnalkZZsdlWsT7GR7zQH2SV7Nr8vmnReRvrRz4N75zDkw/s320/IMG_2359.JPG" /></a></div>
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Ok, a 'kinda pointless picture of me finishing an edge</div>
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of the heart, but it does have the Lil child.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKfrTX_t8DlYAyqkzzPLC7hJq-in4aWOrIzNVtaQ5Pzh6dYYXFFMm_R8IHctzNOFKTBCtDea0cqWQZqvT_l_dmsvCLbeN5lhLPc6BtN4UJK-pSu_-j35s8ddi3beP545TOBiwHtdwAilOz/s1600/IMG_2364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-8947803950773113782012-02-11T12:12:00.001-08:002012-02-11T12:50:09.128-08:00Some Shots of Jewelry Class<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"> The following pictures are a mixed bag of photos from a jewelry class I teach at Lorain County Community College. I teach silver soldering, metal forming (hammering, bending, cutting, buffing, etc.) stone setting, stone drilling, some casting (lost wax occasionally, plus some sand casting). Projects are usually rings, pendants, earrings, bezels, pins, bracelets, and a knife or two. I've been teaching this class for about 8 to10 years or so</span>. <span style="font-size: large;">It's a great class to teach and a lot of people continue to take it over and over which gives it a real sense of community. </span></div>
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Looks like she's getting ready to solder.</div>
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The flame is put to the metal.</div>
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I'm not sure what Barb is putting together, but I'm</div>
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sure it was nice. </div>
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It looks like Paul is sanding something. He really </div>
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cherishes his sanding time. Often times I've heard him</div>
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say, "if you be a friend to your sandpaper, your</div>
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sandpaper will be a friend to you."</div>
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It's always important to apply flux before you solder.</div>
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Sawing is an important skill to develop. I wonder how many</div>
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blades she's broken today?</div>
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Carefully positioning pieces and parts before soldering. </div>
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And now for the soldering.</div>
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Some sanding and forming with a rotary tool.</div>
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Good filing position. It looks like she's got the wood vise block </div>
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in the vise and is filing the sides of a sawn ring blank.<br />
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It looks like somebody is finishing a pierced sun image and</div>
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about ready to make a jump ring and call it a necklace.</div>
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Iffy photo of a nice ring set with an abalone shell cab.</div>
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A nice hammered copper ring. This is a nice first project and </div>
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a typical workshop project. I can usually get everyone to finish</div>
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one of these in about 2 hours or less.</div>
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She's smiling but probably saying/thinking something to the effect of, </div>
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"don't take my picture, you know I have a hammer in my hands.."</div>
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Another picture of the daily grind.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFadMp1BGQEP2VVjkL8LA6WGazR9FbVUNbFP3XPMvk8F_4yDSGfFmgpluQlBWdaxBzWN830xoUpcXdbWy04u4BcxpyKlBpZb8uhYMtfLhk9Rm9mP20ENQnxBJB37-9p1RwAmEg2sG779Cp/s1600/DSCN5113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFadMp1BGQEP2VVjkL8LA6WGazR9FbVUNbFP3XPMvk8F_4yDSGfFmgpluQlBWdaxBzWN830xoUpcXdbWy04u4BcxpyKlBpZb8uhYMtfLhk9Rm9mP20ENQnxBJB37-9p1RwAmEg2sG779Cp/s400/DSCN5113.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Joe made this layered, cross piece with copper soldered to brass. He was using another cross made from wood as an inspiration and was able to keep the rough hewn feeling of the original and yet successfully translate it into metal. He used a rotary tool coupled with a cut off wheel to notch/cut/grind the designs into the surface of the cross. My photo does not really do it justice.<br />
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This is Felice's first ring and bezel. She stuck it out and did a great job. She decided to use a free form piece of turquoise which makes for a little more difficult time constructing the bezel and setting the stone. She also had to cut a little bit of stone to get it to fit. </div>
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</div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-9233088819875127172012-02-11T12:11:00.001-08:002012-02-11T12:50:28.264-08:00Making a Small Ignot<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Making a Small Ingot</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqZ0E7OA_s3sRGouoVwPHoSnEYzAxkKEDlS-kVel-JfO8CdROx7eZbVABCNP52zwSBHkZwg9OvKLzgvn0cpYr3wNdGqRjpoxZCJCyC7Ae2kdIcwK3doC-WDWsDe2WsJ_kc4_xveM-KCch/s1600/enlarged+ingot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqZ0E7OA_s3sRGouoVwPHoSnEYzAxkKEDlS-kVel-JfO8CdROx7eZbVABCNP52zwSBHkZwg9OvKLzgvn0cpYr3wNdGqRjpoxZCJCyC7Ae2kdIcwK3doC-WDWsDe2WsJ_kc4_xveM-KCch/s320/enlarged+ingot.jpg" /></a></div>
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Generally, when you think of the term ingot, you might think of a reasonably sized, nicely made rectilinear solid, of some kind of metal. The following is the process of making a small ingot of gold from some scrap earrings and such that I was given by a customer. In this instance, the customer(that would be Ms. Shelton) had a couple of rings that needed to go up about 2 sizes. In order to save money, I often ask the client to bring some jewelry they don't wear anymore or, as is often the case, an earring that has lost its mate. In the following I'm using gold but you can do silver and other metals. If you want to do silver, it's not a bad idea to add some refined casting grain. Silver has a tendency to get slightly porous and harder to work if it's heated a lot, so adding a bit of pure silver is a good idea.</div>
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Generally, the process is:</div>
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1. Cut up your scrap metal into small pieces.</div>
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2. Cut a shape(it can be any shape) into some sort of refractory material or charcoal.</div>
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3. Put the cut up scrap into the shape you cut out of the refractory material or charcoal.</div>
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4. Sprinkle some liquid or dry flux onto the scrap metal.</div>
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5. Heat it up with a torch.</div>
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6. Just as the metal starts to melt and flow you carefully set something dry, and non burnable on top of the melted metal. You have to be 'kinda careful here. If you leave the torch on too long it will just puddle into a small ball. You also don't want to slam something down on the melted metal hard enough to break the mold or force hot liquid metal all over the place. </div>
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7. Put the small shape/ingot into the pickle for 5 minutes or so, to clean up the crud.</div>
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8. Then, depending upon your application, you pound, hammer, carve, put in rolling mill, or other wise cajole the piece of metal into the shape you want!</div>
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As I mentioned above, in this instance, a customer gave me some scrap gold, consisting of earrings,. One missing it's mate and the others were broken and the customer did not want to wear them anymore.</div>
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Here, I'm cutting up the earrings into small bits. It's a pretty crude process. Just chop/twist them up into small pieces so as to make the melting a bit easier.</div>
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Here's a picture of the dismembered and chopped apart earrings. It's 'kinda nice gold(and other metals) can be melted down and recycled so easy. I read some where most of the gold we actually use/wear is melted down scrap.</div>
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Here I'm using a screwdriver to carve a small rectangle into a block of charcoal. The ruler is just to keep the line somewhat straight. I'm using charcoal because it wants to burn which makes the oxygen in the air go into the charcoal as opposed to the metal I'm trying to melt, which keeps the metal less porous, more pure and ultimately, easier to work. I'm creating, in a crude way, a reducing atmosphere. </div>
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You can carve any shape. A good way of using up scrap is to carve a ring blank and then when your done just bend it around your ring mandrel and solder it up. It's makes a relatively crude casting, but very usable as long as you keep the limitations of the process in mind.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS0XrX1-eZp7bRM3v91IHCCHRMrQhBf9BEhtdYthYHKeLpP6oY6Gi7K7UIFU8B0-My04U4T1eWRrvhRAgdFjfFikcg5dyu3xT98xYvZR_-Ec0DNoWxvarY518j4KCTEpUkbD39f-jYUeF2/s1600/DSCN0918.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS0XrX1-eZp7bRM3v91IHCCHRMrQhBf9BEhtdYthYHKeLpP6oY6Gi7K7UIFU8B0-My04U4T1eWRrvhRAgdFjfFikcg5dyu3xT98xYvZR_-Ec0DNoWxvarY518j4KCTEpUkbD39f-jYUeF2/s320/DSCN0918.jpg" /></a></div>
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Here is a picture of the completed slot that I'm going to melt metal into. It's a certain shape, size, and thickness because I'm making this particular tiny ingot into a piece of sheet metal to add to a ring to increase it's size. The ring I'm needing a piece for is somewhat rectangular in this instance, but if you need a more 1/2 round shape or any other kind of shape, you can certainly scrape that shape in also. </div>
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Here you can see the crudely cut up and mangled scrap laying in the slot I cut in the charcoal. Add some flux and your ready to go. </div>
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In the pictures above I'm using a plain, <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">acetylene</span> only, torch in this example, but you could use any kind of torch, as long as it generates enough heat for melting. Before I use the torch I put some flux on the scrap. You can use either liquid or powdered, whatever you have handy. I've heard the liquid flux will last a bit longer in the flame, but I don't know, both seem to work fine.</div>
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OK, what you didn't see. As the metal melts, it wants to pool into a small blob/ball. This is less than useful for my purposes here. Remember, I'm trying, in this instance, to make an certain,approximate shape, in order to have a small piece of usable metal to size a ring. So what you have to do is, just as the metal melts, and before the metal pools up, I gently, but forcibly, set/press another piece of charcoal(or some other refractory material) onto the molten metal. Not hard enough to break the mold and scatter molten metal, just enough to flatten the molten metal into the mold. This would be hard to do and take pictures at the same time, hence, no picture of this exciting moment. Here you can see me picking up the hot little piece of metal from the charcoal block.</div>
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Here I'm just putting the little bit of freshly made metal into the pickle for a few minutes to clean it up.</div>
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A picture of the piece of metal. It's pretty small.</div>
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Here I'm tapping/hammering the small blank to render it a little more flattened. If I was going to reduce it a lot in thickness, I'd have to anneal it. I think I did.</div>
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Here, I'm passing the small bit of metal through a rolling mill in order to reduce it's thickness some more. You don't necessarily have to use a rolling mill, you could just hammer it into shape. But I have a rolling mill, so it'd be crazy not to use it. It's fun tool.</div>
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The next thing is to look at the post concerning sizing a ring and see how this little bit of metal get utilized in order to increase the size/diameter of a ring. </div>
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<br /></div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-43155947441125997142012-02-11T12:09:00.001-08:002012-03-08T12:17:42.798-08:00Sizing a Ring<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The following is a reasonable, if somewhat abbreviated, posting on what is involved in resizing a ring. The ring(s) in question are going up about two sizes, which means you need to add about 2/10ths of an inch of metal. If I was only going up a little I could probably just hammer the ring shank a little thinner, thereby stretching the rings' circumference a bit. But if you need to size a ring up more than a size you have to solder in a piece of matching metal, in this case gold. If you read the "Making an Ingot" posting you'll see in this posting, the small ingot being utilized in adding metal to the ring. I did not include very many pictures of me forming, filing, sanding, and buffing the ring. That sort of thing doesn't make for very interesting reading or pictures.</div>
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I've done a lot of ring sizing and learned ring sizing mostly, by practicing on silver rings. I used to do a lot of sizing and general jewelry repair for a gallery called, "Art at the Powerhouse" and really became pretty quick and adept at it over a period of years. I still do sizing for anybody that calls, stops by, or drops off rings and usually the price of sizing a silver ring up or down is between $10.00 and $20.00. Gold rings take a little more time but generally, size the same way, it just usually costs more. </div>
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This is the two rings I'll be using throughout this posting. They are made of14K gold, little diamonds on the one band and the other band is plain. The sculptural/carved nature of the rings will cause a problem by breaking during the sizing process. The carved grooves cut into the ring shank so far as to weaken the ring. I didn't show it in the pictures below, but I had to solder another piece of gold into the grooves and then re-file/carve the grooves to get everything to match back up. It was somewhat of a pain, but it came out OK. Things going wrong are just a part of the the process. </div>
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This is a picture of the plain band and some pictures of the gold I melted, poured into the charcoal mold, and then hammered and rolled. If you look at the post concerning "Making an Ingot "you'll see the step I did to prepare for this.</div>
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This is a shot of me cutting the ring apart to make way for the new piece of metal.</div>
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Pulling the band apart<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIiZjf_HYZsZliFb-rvIF7Z3j-A8R3_MRIarzJAgxoT5E1lp7TWbxqN0ec4Nyy6OWjUboXeVaQRB1VODOxfKzdLdz-LDwDwUrX0uMCRZUid4b09vulVe81Q_xLECUVZASrlKQiq1RuTD60/s1600/DSCN0992.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIiZjf_HYZsZliFb-rvIF7Z3j-A8R3_MRIarzJAgxoT5E1lp7TWbxqN0ec4Nyy6OWjUboXeVaQRB1VODOxfKzdLdz-LDwDwUrX0uMCRZUid4b09vulVe81Q_xLECUVZASrlKQiq1RuTD60/s320/DSCN0992.jpg" /></a></div>
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In this picture I've slid the cut apart ring over the ring mandrel and am sliding the ring down until I get a little bit smaller than the size I want. Why a little smaller? Because later, after I've soldered the new piece of metal in, I'll need to form the metal with a hammer which will stretch the ring a bit larger.</div>
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Here, I'm using dividers to measure up for the metal to be soldered in. You could use a ruler, calipers, etc. to measure, dividers are just easier.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY2rkyiARqlpWC_MPP3_SK_1v2hRSqsutUfrNYG_dQsdTx_Pr48Qa402Re_cvj_qhehK3jTcB412gsQ73pdagv2OAS5JjFZQ6TlVi5jOBB11YvV_rB4PxOIrOFPUZetHnuZ6laSJLmC4z2/s1600/DSCN0996.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY2rkyiARqlpWC_MPP3_SK_1v2hRSqsutUfrNYG_dQsdTx_Pr48Qa402Re_cvj_qhehK3jTcB412gsQ73pdagv2OAS5JjFZQ6TlVi5jOBB11YvV_rB4PxOIrOFPUZetHnuZ6laSJLmC4z2/s320/DSCN0996.jpg" /></a></div>
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Here I'm transferring the measurement I took from above and am scratching it into the metal that will be used to solder into the ring.</div>
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No big deal here, I'm just cutting the metal to size. I didn't get any photos of me filing the ring or the piece of metal about to be added to the ring. But both the ring and the metal have to be fitted carefully and exactly.</div>
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Setting the metal into the ring. Notice how the ring is not quite round anymore. It's more important that the ring and the piece of metal being used fit together perfectly, with no gaps. The ring can be made round later.</div>
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Her you can see the piece of metal fitted into the ring. There is a lot of excess metal but it makes it easier to fit and I can remove and form it later into the appropriate shape.</div>
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Here you can see the ring slid over a tapered carbon/graphite rod (you can also get ceramic ones too)with the solder positioned over each joint. Here I'm using borax flux cause it holds stuff together a bit more than liquid flux, but you could use either one. You don't necessarily have to have the rod but it sometimes makes the process a little easier. In the picture right above you can see I'm packing a heat resistant gel around the ring that had the diamond setting to help protect the stones. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX7uaGnJWSbv30ZgphysBDy01lPAwgs-61Ugw3jHdpuItTrE-xJII1LgXSO6cQim4WEhwq0BTV68HCqIumICKsEW9QVXx7AKjvUkvw3brbDqfh9wx49fMYS13DTYFulptTZx5caj6csCq0/s1600/DSCN1038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX7uaGnJWSbv30ZgphysBDy01lPAwgs-61Ugw3jHdpuItTrE-xJII1LgXSO6cQim4WEhwq0BTV68HCqIumICKsEW9QVXx7AKjvUkvw3brbDqfh9wx49fMYS13DTYFulptTZx5caj6csCq0/s320/DSCN1038.jpg" /></a></div>
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You can use any kind of torch to size as long as it get hot enough. I prefer a oxygen-acetylene torch for sizing, because it's very hot and allows me to heat the ring very quickly, without getting the stones hot. If done quickly, you can solder the ring with almost no heat getting to the setting. This takes practice because you can easily melt the ring shank and be back to square one. I've done it. Generally, silver conducts heat away quicker than gold and the shape of the item and the way you use the flame all contribute towards getting the project soldered right or melting into a frustrating mess.</div>
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Here is the ring after the soldering. I've slid it onto a mandrel to round it back up and to start working it up to the size it should be. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUR4Z0EVV-m1tvUZ8yuVPKSIlhUZvZbOUDvJvXLdlXB0OtqOPHIl_TOoapZ9krgX_qhl2pdLsJ9E63yJXdn0AUDMGsV4mUFL13c1rR6eevMC33cFNfCopepGqsQ7w-uVWbeCS_9BVnTwH/s1600/DSCN1048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUR4Z0EVV-m1tvUZ8yuVPKSIlhUZvZbOUDvJvXLdlXB0OtqOPHIl_TOoapZ9krgX_qhl2pdLsJ9E63yJXdn0AUDMGsV4mUFL13c1rR6eevMC33cFNfCopepGqsQ7w-uVWbeCS_9BVnTwH/s320/DSCN1048.jpg" /></a></div>
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A judicious amount of tapping will make it round and start to form the actual profile needed for the patch to match up with the profile of the ring itself. </div>
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You can see where I've marked a line indicating where to cut to remove the excess material.</div>
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The extra is almost completely cut off.<br />
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Here is a picture of the ring with the excess metal removed. It looks 'kinda crude.<br />
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Some filing, both with hand files, sanding drums, and various tools is required to get the metal patch looking like it belongs. This process takes a bit of time, with various files and rotary bits. <br />
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Here, you can see the finished repair. If you fit and finish everything closely enough, you really can't see any signs of the repair. </div>
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Hopefully the above gives you an idea as to how to size a ring. There's undoubtedly more to it, but you get the general idea. Part of being able to size a ring is being able to fix things when you screw up. Which certainly happens on occasion. Getting a bunch of silver rings to practice on is a good idea. You'll melt a few and you need to get that out of the way(and learn how to fix your mistakes!) before you start doing it for paying customers. </div>
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</div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-46740129812174664472012-02-11T12:07:00.001-08:002012-02-11T12:54:33.175-08:00Easy Shell Mount<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Easy Shell Pendant Mount</span></div>
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Below is quick slide show/video of some of the steps involved in making a pendant intended to hold a shell. It's a pretty easy project with no real soldering, except I usually like to solder the jump rings shut. It just looks better and it's seems more secure. But for that you could use a low temp solder, if need be. The banjo music is me finger picking a quick, abbreviated version of Beethoven's 9th. The photos and text below the vid should give a little more details as to constructing the pendant. But I just wanted to play some banjo and try this new software out.<br />
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<object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" height="240" id="vp1qk8Q2" width="432"><param name="movie" value="http://static.animoto.com/swf/w.swf?w=swf/vp1&e=1281907460&f=qk8Q2i16uxNUe0ez61QD2A&d=30&m=b&r=w&i=m&options=">
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This is the shell I started out with. I picked it up at the beach when Liz and I went to Massachusetts to visit our niece, Abby. </div>
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This is a drawing/tracing of the shell. I just traced the shell on paper and added the little protrusions/prongs with the idea that they would eventually be bent up to hold the shell. You could make them any shape. </div>
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I used rubber cement to glue the paper down to the metal. You can see the metal has been used before, but it certainly had more than enough room to make some more pieces. You can't see it but I've also glued paper down on the other side. It just keeps it from getting scratched. </div>
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At the bench, sawing.<br />
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The piece sawed out.<br />
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The metal and the shell side by side and then the shell on top. The drawing is still glued down and at this point I'm just sizing it up and deciding how much needs to be filed down to get it to fit right.</div>
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Drilling a hole for the eventual jump ring.<br />
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The finished piece in some serious need to be shaped, sanded, and filed. </div>
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More pictures of fitting the shell to the metal.<br />
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This is difficult to see, but what I'm doing is filing a shallow grove into/across the little prongs. If you remove a bit of metal(don't file too far!) it make the bending up of the prongs to hold the shell a little bit easier. I filed each of the 5 prongs in this way.</div>
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Here I'm using a prong pusher and a pair of smooth pliers to coax the prongs up around the shell to hold the shell to the backing. You need to be careful here so you don't crack or chip the piece your trying to mount.<br />
I buffed the piece with bobbing compound and then zam to a high shine before I fit the shell. Then I touched up the prongs with some more buffing after I bent and pushed them into place. </div>
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A couple of shots of the finished piece.<br />
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<i>During the making of this piece I cracked one of the shells by dropping it. I'm sure I said something I would not be proud of. If your setting something somewhat delicate into a open mount it's sometimes not a bad idea to epoxy/fiberglass the inside of the piece, if you not going to see it. Then, if it does break, your not as likely to see pieces scatter all over the floor,plus from a user/wearabilty standpoint strength without an aesthetic backlash can only be a good thing.</i> <br />
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<i> The above You Tube post is is pretty much a duplicate of the one at the beginning. I just wanted to try posting both to see if there was much difference in the results and the process of embedding the html code. There was really no difference in pasting in the html other than adjusting the width through the html, which is really pretty easy.</i></div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-57407499652089832062012-02-11T11:47:00.001-08:002012-02-11T12:56:40.501-08:00Cowry Shell Pendant EZ The following is an easy way to mount a cowry shell and other found objects. This particular example should be classified in the C.B.E. category, that is, Crude, But Effective. It's a nice project because it's relatively easy and involves no soldering. This is basically the same setting as the other shell pendant, with a few minor variations. The setting can be used to mount beach glass also.<br />
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Just a simple shell, about an inch long.</div>
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I traced the shell shape onto a piece of paper and then drew the 4 tabs sticking out. Then I glued the paper down to a piece of metal. I'm using nickel-silver in this example, but you could use anything. I used a regular jewelers saw, with most likely, a 5/0 blade to cut the shape out show here.</div>
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Here's the shell set on top of the cut out metal, just to see how it fits and all. Notice a problem? I didn't either till about 10 minutes later.</div>
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Here I'm drilling a hole in the middle of the piece in order to fit a saw blade through so I can cut a hole in the piece. The shell is rounded on the back and would not sit flat, so the hole allows it to set into the setting a little more securely. </div>
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Here you can see me grinding a slant to the sides of the hole, so the shell can fit as tight as possible. Right about here is where I was looking, grinding, listening to the radio and probably drinking a beverage of some sort when the thought occurred to me, "YOU IDIOT, YOU FORGOT TO DRAW AND CUT A PIECE OF METAL AT THE TOP OF THE MOUNT TO RUN THE JUMP RING THROUGH!!!!" At times like this, I use a primitive coping mechanism that involves uttering, usually loudly, various words and phrases. This time was no different. Didn't really help either, but such is my pre-simian brain. </div>
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So the rest of the pictures involve another, very similar piece and the one above with a small "ear" hard soldered on and sanded flat, you really can't see the fact that I grew a piece of metal onto the original piece. It's a good skill to have.<br />
If you look carefully at the enlarged picture below you'll see a faint line where I have hard soldered on a piece of metal and then drilled the hole for the jump ring. </div>
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In these two pictures you can see the tabs are being bent up to get ready to set the shell into. I haven't really shown any finishing, but it's pretty much the usual sort of sanding and buffing.</div>
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Here's two more shots of the metal piece and the shell being fitted. Then it's just bending, twisting and tweaking along with carefully squeezing in the cowry shell. They can break, you have to be careful/ready for this sort of thing.</div>
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In the above two photos, you can see how much of the shell protrudes through the hole. Without the hole the shell would be rocking on top of a flat piece of metal as opposed to setting into the metal and being griped on the sides.<br />
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I fitted a jump ring, soldered it, and ran an inexpensive cord through it. It's a very adaptable mount that does not take too long, requires no soldering, and does not require a tremendous amount of skill.</div>
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<br /></div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-55649017760150880842012-02-11T11:46:00.001-08:002012-02-11T12:57:04.909-08:00Gypsy Setting The following is some pictures and explanatory text about making a gypsy setting. I limit myself to doing 2mm size settings because it is easier to keep stuff in stock. It's a very inexpensive way of setting small faceted stones because all your really doing is creating a hole to set the gem into. You make the hole with a rotary burr that corresponds to the size and shape of the stone but lets the stone set down far enough to have just a small amount(if the stone is 2mm, you only need a few tenths of a mm) of metal sticking up over the stone. Then you just rub the metal over to hold it in. It's really the essence of simplicity and 'kinda primitive. That's not to say it will be easy the first time, but it is a nice skill to have. The ring was made/cast by a student (Barbara) and has a total of 3 stones(czs).<br />
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The two above shots are close ups of the burr used to create the hole/setting and the stones I used. I have a selection of 1.6-2.5 mm burrs to set the 2mm stones. Just because you buy 2mm stones does not mean they will be exactly 2mm. </div>
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You can't see it here, but a 1mm (more likely less) hole has been drilled through the ring first, then you just bore out the hole a bit larger with the appropriate burr. If you look carefully, you'll see the burr is still slightly above the surface of the ring so it needed to go a bit further. Remember, the only thing holding the stone in is a small, thin, ring of metal that will be pushed over the stone.</div>
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This is a close up of the hole cut into the ring. It's hard to depict, but the the hole is slightly deeper than the height of the ring. That little extra bit is the metal that will pushed down and around with a burnisher that will hold the stone. This was a harder than usual gypsy setting because the hole was slightly recessed into the surface of the ring. </div>
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The two shots above show the green cz being set in and rubbed over. In the top picture you can see all the bad marks and scratches around the stone before being cleaned up.</div>
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The above are some pictures of the finished ring. </div>
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The pictures below are of a 2mm blue cz set into a 1/2 round sterling silver ring. When I do craft shows this is an inexpensive ring that I can make and customize with different color czs. Creating a gypsy setting in a 1/2 round means you will have to over bore(go deeper) the top of the 1/2 round ring shank in order to bore deep enough to get enough metal for the sides. It's somewhat of a pain, but, like most things, easy once you've done a few. If you mess things up you can drill out the setting to match an appropriate diameter of wire and solder it in. If you heat the ring up first and make sure the wire is cold you can drive it through and it will shrink up tight. If you fit it correctly, you will not be able to see the repair after you solder it. <br />
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If you look carefully, and think about it, you can imagine the stone being slightly bigger than what you are seeing from this angle. The silver is pushed over the outside diameter of the stone and this is what holds it in. It's a thin, small piece of metal. I've worn one of these for about 5+ years now and it has yet to fall out. Eventually it has to wear and become less than secure. I guess I could glue it in too, but that seems 'kinda wrong.</div>
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A reasonable, digitally enhanced close up. You can see the scratches from rubbing the rim down over the stone. You have to be careful cleaning up the scratches, you don't want to remove to much of the metal that holds the stone in. This picture is probably about 4x actual size, so you probably wouldn't be able to see the scratches anyway.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikmZj50_5UMnEKvTl0ecVkPbaLCaQGG5I7s0kPeNcDAfMYMP6RAENa7XKbkyob-U0nPSa0Tt3e45yPhEj2lPc61Kt3lVYHhNThOMjf3RTlNGDNHsSByan3RkZe4NR3ATc_aoLKQLZwbaC7/s1600/DSCN5306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikmZj50_5UMnEKvTl0ecVkPbaLCaQGG5I7s0kPeNcDAfMYMP6RAENa7XKbkyob-U0nPSa0Tt3e45yPhEj2lPc61Kt3lVYHhNThOMjf3RTlNGDNHsSByan3RkZe4NR3ATc_aoLKQLZwbaC7/s320/DSCN5306.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here is another another way to do a gypsy setting. First, I made a regular ring, in this case it's a hammered texture, sort of a thing, although in the pictures you really can't tell. I soldered a small scrap silver rectangle on top, making the section of the ring a bit thicker, this was to allow enough depth of metal to bore out the cavity where the stone will eventually set. I finally soldered some thin gauge wire next to the rectangle, just because I liked the look. Then, it's just creating the setting like described before in the previous ring. In this picture you can see a lot of the scratches from the setting process.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXY4eWlaszvu5QQxpFORgFoGt-1aQaRyNM-0tRtYLeofMzf6N5nV4LFvZBdA-HsZvAUcS1Ev8DgrkSIfLFW6c7Z7nMCjmvbvKB8Hhg1pRD5lMw6P_n5hlYn8BvBIOo95zepILqgAG1KcAu/s1600/DSCN5329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXY4eWlaszvu5QQxpFORgFoGt-1aQaRyNM-0tRtYLeofMzf6N5nV4LFvZBdA-HsZvAUcS1Ev8DgrkSIfLFW6c7Z7nMCjmvbvKB8Hhg1pRD5lMw6P_n5hlYn8BvBIOo95zepILqgAG1KcAu/s320/DSCN5329.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFj0RcV1O2C80Gi1nPHMzAWcsyLKifQ3wqkdHDRia-Nzf-tI8ZWsc9d9yiE37X40EvYlcHBlecHu74BEl1-V91dm6emIJMmtmF8XlbrfCCfIWvuL1WIBYWAVM56LHhpVBa8Muo2mSHhphO/s1600/DSCN5310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFj0RcV1O2C80Gi1nPHMzAWcsyLKifQ3wqkdHDRia-Nzf-tI8ZWsc9d9yiE37X40EvYlcHBlecHu74BEl1-V91dm6emIJMmtmF8XlbrfCCfIWvuL1WIBYWAVM56LHhpVBa8Muo2mSHhphO/s320/DSCN5310.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The shots above are the finished ring with the setting scratches removed. </div>
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<br /></div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-88390421502720499642012-02-11T11:43:00.001-08:002012-02-11T12:57:29.714-08:00Beach glass Mount The following is a variation on a theme. If you've looked at the shell pendants, this is pretty much the same sort of thing but with an irregular piece of beach glass. It is traced out the same way with the prongs/tabs being positioned to hold the piece in. Since the beach glass is transparent, I cut a piece out so light could get through, it makes it glow a bit better.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtk4XndUX3CcuwAccCTLHPRJJOa3sVgoZaxP7bgDBhxvDaMJlhawYPZB6p9VN4k00WoTTOq8q_ZMQM5surYnYu1uOFGPbGMWy5ydgnpBlEETm0wPsZwuPTztyFAMzmpotdvwXcklrhM85O/s1600/DSCN3766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtk4XndUX3CcuwAccCTLHPRJJOa3sVgoZaxP7bgDBhxvDaMJlhawYPZB6p9VN4k00WoTTOq8q_ZMQM5surYnYu1uOFGPbGMWy5ydgnpBlEETm0wPsZwuPTztyFAMzmpotdvwXcklrhM85O/s320/DSCN3766.JPG" width="315" /></a></div>
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To the left is a piece of beach glass I used to trace to make the above drawing. I used rubber cement as a contact adhesive to hold it down to the metal for cutting. I added the tabs to be bent up later to hold the beach glass in place. The circle above the piece will eventually have a hole drilled in it so a jump ring can be fitted.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiLiQWsSSDUlN-dZf8xKRYIsE35OI3d6exTlJjhGVku-yDLBxmWU_ePICgGUJt20Ugwlev3-RPCWPW1-eqBua5xXkVFqXIBNly13k_Kp6gmsaLm38Y2-9gSQjFPBTSLVw8AJ1ODuY9JP6Z/s1600/DSCN3768.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiLiQWsSSDUlN-dZf8xKRYIsE35OI3d6exTlJjhGVku-yDLBxmWU_ePICgGUJt20Ugwlev3-RPCWPW1-eqBua5xXkVFqXIBNly13k_Kp6gmsaLm38Y2-9gSQjFPBTSLVw8AJ1ODuY9JP6Z/s320/DSCN3768.JPG" width="204" /></a></div>
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This is a shot of the glass on top of the drawing just to illustrate what is going on.</div>
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The above two shots just illustrate some steps in cutting out the shape. Just straight up cutting.<br />
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This is the whole piece with the drawing removed with the center cut out also. It looks pretty rough right here. You can see the lines I cut into the tabs which make it easier to bend up and around the stone. The lines here were made a little deeper yet. I just didn't take the picture. I used a saw to start the kerf and then enlarged the slot/groove with a very thin abrasive disk. I didn't take any pictures of the finishing process. It's fairly straightforward, scraping, filing, sanding, and buffing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6klVpnQXRx9gEUjSYXa4zKBGJQO8O3C4gxbgJS9v8APJvgnx4ITVRUsebM7PX3bAr1gYnjlsncqBY9vBfvoqsLE0bgcP665p21sQ-OdC_s5qYNYBUgzGZSxbMHZre_1J35cdKNMbLwfmx/s1600/DSCN3802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6klVpnQXRx9gEUjSYXa4zKBGJQO8O3C4gxbgJS9v8APJvgnx4ITVRUsebM7PX3bAr1gYnjlsncqBY9vBfvoqsLE0bgcP665p21sQ-OdC_s5qYNYBUgzGZSxbMHZre_1J35cdKNMbLwfmx/s400/DSCN3802.JPG" width="241" /></a></div>
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Some final shots of the the piece buffed up and with the beach glass fitted. It's a very easy piece to make with no soldering really required, although I soldered the jump ring shut.Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-36793367100214471552012-02-11T11:42:00.001-08:002012-02-11T12:57:57.919-08:00Pi Day Penny Project<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> The following is a simple and very inexpensive project to make for Pi Day. For those who don't know, Pi day is on March 14, or 3.14, which is the approximate value of Pi. I've made a few of these and thought I'd do a quick post about it. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">So the first thing to do is trace the penny.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> This is the traced circle.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">I just freehanded a crude Pi symbol.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKBCUY86F_E6T9ECshoAoBM9MugetfcUKSXXtzmo64dVzkVAlNOoeHFc7IgHCp0RKlrMicj_jVmhyphenhyphenbvwtx_X-5CahQlfGWQPgr3RNJMapHnjpKgP1XjMmPk5RRjyNNNruSrYLJbp2Ck63u/s1600/DSCN5002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKBCUY86F_E6T9ECshoAoBM9MugetfcUKSXXtzmo64dVzkVAlNOoeHFc7IgHCp0RKlrMicj_jVmhyphenhyphenbvwtx_X-5CahQlfGWQPgr3RNJMapHnjpKgP1XjMmPk5RRjyNNNruSrYLJbp2Ck63u/s320/DSCN5002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">This is the penny next to the drawing.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">As is my usual procedure, I applied rubber cement</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Then I glued the paper to the penny.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">I used a awl to make a starter spot for the </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">drill bit to start.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">A shot of the drill bit making a hole to </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">put the saw blade through.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Here you can see blade fitted through the </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">starter hole and me sawing the design out</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Another shot of me sawing.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">This is what it looks like with the design</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">cut out and the paper still on. I also</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">drilled a hole at the top to fit a jump ring through.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZoJvf8sNMR-KO3Nit8J2BXC4PAE0Oq6XwnQQQcARxX7ckVtm4boKkOuVghPsM_MWjR1Jv8icXproLWE7ngB0eK6CQLNoXlqr0a44fLebwRABWeBp6xWxYtJEifJpGT9TPfGMLFjkMunT/s1600/DSCN5017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZoJvf8sNMR-KO3Nit8J2BXC4PAE0Oq6XwnQQQcARxX7ckVtm4boKkOuVghPsM_MWjR1Jv8icXproLWE7ngB0eK6CQLNoXlqr0a44fLebwRABWeBp6xWxYtJEifJpGT9TPfGMLFjkMunT/s320/DSCN5017.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Here is the penny with the paper removed. Next</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"> I </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">filed </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">the design to clean up the lines a bit.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Her you can see the jump ring fitted and me soldering</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">the jump ring shut. You could avoid soldering by using </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">a small split ring if necessary. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitNmTx-ZCtO0ZWXB4BXHVER5vTf54OBylrCOvOqsGQLk4tOuGGxBEmVwA_5hY3YQ6wQh_Mkx5MKGWC46443e9UZtE1Ki6ZqzoDEhm9UeFAkpv13I54n93PpCl0BQW2AvPzXbZ_bQZGHYje/s1600/DSCN5019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitNmTx-ZCtO0ZWXB4BXHVER5vTf54OBylrCOvOqsGQLk4tOuGGxBEmVwA_5hY3YQ6wQh_Mkx5MKGWC46443e9UZtE1Ki6ZqzoDEhm9UeFAkpv13I54n93PpCl0BQW2AvPzXbZ_bQZGHYje/s320/DSCN5019.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Here's the finished item. It's a pretty quick project, </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">if your sawing skills are reasonable. It took longer </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">to upload the pictures and write the text than to </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">actually do the project.</span></div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6331921224937998673.post-42717772152214363232012-02-11T11:36:00.001-08:002012-02-11T12:58:21.431-08:00Octagonal Ring The following are the steps necessary to make an octagonal ring. It's a pretty easy, straight up, project. Your cutting a piece of wire to size, soldering it together, rounding it up on a mandrel and then pounding some facets on to it. It's easy to do when I'm doing shows and it's also easy to adjust the size up a bit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik_zC1y417nqZrQ8pRV0hSDc0Hum4HCJIx8WNx9lsI5qe_2XIr_da1gw-x_eSR0C0dHjdveBXYY4AGIWNvbAdkovUAD9ZrcIS0yal4YSqw2gFVYPRbF5BjgSVZflyI56-iW2qYKCTd6Vo/s1600/brightened+ruler+and+wire.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik_zC1y417nqZrQ8pRV0hSDc0Hum4HCJIx8WNx9lsI5qe_2XIr_da1gw-x_eSR0C0dHjdveBXYY4AGIWNvbAdkovUAD9ZrcIS0yal4YSqw2gFVYPRbF5BjgSVZflyI56-iW2qYKCTd6Vo/s400/brightened+ruler+and+wire.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here you can see a piece of 12 gauge or 14 gauge silver round wire being measured, cut and filed to a size 6. I measure both wires out at a size 6, just to see what size they would come out to being, after being hammered into shape.<br />
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The shots above are the wires in a cut and formed state and then soldered together. I didn't show me so soldering the wires together because I didn't particularly feel like setting the camera up on a tripod and setting the timer on the camera, plus it's pretty much just an average soldering job. I might have spread the wires slightly apart and set the solder between the wire ends or I might have set the wire on top of a piece of solder(that would be called a pallion, for individuals who prefer formal jewelry nomenclature). It really doesn't matter, whatever your comfortable with. If I'm doing it in class I'd probably be setting the chip of solder on top and soldering from underneath because it's easier for people to see what's going on.<br />
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Here the soldered wire rings are slid over the mandrel and hammered round with a plastic or leather mallet. Notice the difference in sizes, I started with wires cut to the same length, but they round up to a different size due to the difference in wire gauge. The thicker gauge(12) is not quite up to a size 4 and the thinner gauge(14) is setting at about 4 1/4 size. Remember we started with size 6. Quite a bit of difference, but I'm going to hammer the ring in the following steps which will stretch it again to a bigger size. <br />
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This is really where things get interesting. While the ring is slid tightly on the mandrel I set the ring down on an anvil or against a polished piece of flat steel. Here I'm using a flat piece of steel. You have to hold the mandrel tightly against and parallel to the top surface of the anvil/metal block. Then start hammering with a nice, flat, preferably polished, hammer. The hammer makes a flat spot on the top and the action of pounding down makes a flat spot where the ring is in contact with the flat surface of the anvil or steel block. I you look carefully you'll see there is already a flat spot from this being done before. So at this point I will have four flat spots. After you hammer a flat spot you turn the ring 90 degrees so that the flat spots you just hammered are sticking out to the left and right.<br />
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In the above pictures you should see the round ring being hammered to create 4 flat sides. In the last picture, right above, you can see the ring with the four flat sides standing up on it's own. It's sitting on the metal block I used to hammer it upon. At this point I slid the ring back on the mandrel and set the ring back on the steel block and positioned the ring on the remaining round spots and hammered those flat, just like in the above steps. <br />
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The two shots above are the rings with all 8 sides hammered, one 12 gauge and the other 14 gauge. I 'kinda like the way they can stand up on their own.<br />
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This is interesting. If you remember from the above, I cut two pieces of 12 and 14 gauge wire to a size 6 length. Then after soldering, the 12 gauge became a 3 3/4 and the 14 gauge became a 4 1/4. Then after hammering, the 12 gauge stretched back to a 6 and the 14 gauge stretched to a 6 1/2. I hope that does not sound complicated, it really isn't, it's good to know the progression of the measurements. This ring is easy to size as you make it. Stop hammering when you get to the size you need or hammer some more if you need to make the ring bigger.<br />
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Some shots of the finished rings, from slightly different viewpoints, slightly buffed. If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me. </div>
</div>Mike Taysehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07467170627290311880noreply@blogger.com0